Susheela Nair
Jorhat (Assam)

TEA tourism is the most happening thing in Assam. Intrepid tourists are making their way to verdant tea estates to savour gracious living in the lap of nature.

Foreigners arrive to trace their roots. They want to see where their forefathers spent their lives and experience the sylvan environs of tea plantations. A few days stay is like a journey down memory lane. There are others who have heard stories from their fathers and grandfathers about tea estates and are keen to experience the life of the aristocratic planter. Then, there are foreigners who come to visit old British cemeteries spread across the northeast. They prefer to stay in the tea gardens.

A stay in a heritage bungalow with a visit to a  tea garden in Jorhat, the tea capital of the northeast, is an enriching experience. One can observe tea leaves being plucked, talk to the local people and learn about the fascinating bush to cup story. The visit can culminate in witnessing tea tasting sessions.

The tea industry is currently beset with problems like inclement weather and labour unrest. The tea economy is shrinking. But tea tourism is emerging as a great revenue earner. Apart from tourism, it creates awareness about good tea.

Realising the tremendous potential of tea and heritage tourism, HP Barooah, a pioneering tea planter introduced the trend of tea, heritage and colonial lifestyle tourism in tea bungalows across the northeast. A chain of heritage and tea bungalows like the 75-year old, Thengal Manor, Burra Sahib and Mistry Sahib near Jorhat and Rosaville in Shillong were given a facelift in 2001. Tourists can stay here. Currently, the Heritage North East venture is marketed by the ITC WelcomHeritage Group, which is managing 62 heritage hotels and resorts in 19 states.

Rosaville, built in 1935 by the late Raibahadur Kanaklal Barua, a prominent citizen of Assam was named after his daughter, Rosa. The architecture is neo-colonial. Rosaville has immaculate period furniture and bric-a-brac. Burra Sahib and Mistry Sahib near Jorhat are other heritage bungalows offering a taste of tourism.

There is also Thengal Manor, the ancestral property of tea planters from the Khanguja Barooah clan in Jalukonibari, just 15 km off the town of Jorhat. As you stroll through the stately white manor, you can enjoy the history and nostalgia associated with this place. A plaque at the entrance of a large porch mentions that the Assamese newspaper Dainik Batori was launched from here on 12 August, 1935. The walls are lined with sepia toned pictures and fascinating portraits of the family.

A lounge at the entrance leads to the imposing and tastefully furnished mansion, built in 1935. There are spacious bedrooms with carpeted floors surrounded by verandahs facing flowery, sprawling gardens. The plush suites with antique furniture, chandeliers, fire-places, four-poster beds with silk coverlets, wooden laundry baskets, antique desks and leather-backed swivel chairs exude colonial charm. The manor is a miniature museum with well chosen objects de art, antiques and pieces of porcelain - all from the owner's personal collection, including an ancient gramophone and a marble bird bath. The high ceilings, sprawling balconies and glass windows add to the harmony of the manor. You can lounge in the central courtyard in the evening sipping tea, reading novels and enjoy the aristocratic life of an Assamese planter in days of yore.

A ramble around the manor yields its own pleasures. After bed tea, step into the garden for a breath of fresh air. It has a variety of bloom, several species of trees and perennials. In the backyard, there are trees laden with fruit. Stop by under a leafy arbour to listen to the warble of the birds. There are two ponds for fishing and boating, a Namghar (Assamese temple) and memorials of the family. A morning walk can build up an appetite. The manor offers a hearty breakfast of fresh fruit, marmalade, scrambled eggs and fried tomatoes along with tea and toast. The culinary delights are prepared with fresh fruit and vegetables from the garden.

There are other unique outdoor activities on offer. You can stroll from the manor to the neighbouring village of Jalukonibari. Or you can take a bullock cart ride to experience rural life. You can stop by to admire the works of master weavers who abound in this area. To get a glimpse of life in the 'bagan', accompany a plantation manager and watch tea being plucked in the early light of dawn, inspect the processing of the aromatic buds, and exchange notes on tea tasting.

Proximity to other tourist spots is another advantage of this property. The world famous Teklai Tea Research Institute which researches new varieties of tea and studies the healing properties of green tea is close by. Another interesting halt is the Gymkhana Club, a heritage spot and known for the colourful history of its members. It is famous for flower shows, race weeks, and ubiquitous 'bar gossip.'

The first aeroplane to the northeast landed on the club grounds in 1928 to shift an ailing British lady for treatment to Kolkata. Jorhat is an ideal spot to explore several tourist attractions all within a few hours drive. One can play lord of the manor at Thengal or explore exotic sites like Majuli, the world's largest river island, Kaziranga, a World Heritage site and home to the one-horned rhino, or you can go see the ancient monuments of Sibsagar, the capital of the Ahom kings.

For reservations contact:
Tel:WelcomHeritage at 011- 46035500
Email: holidays@welcomheritagehotels.com

August 2009 Edition

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