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Susheela Nair
Cochin

H ERITAGE at its monumental best is what the visitor is privy to in Kerala, God’s Own Country. Head for Fort Kochi. Stroll down its winding streets to discover the old-world magic of this erstwhile trading colony where Chinese fishing nets still haul a good catch and shops flaunt antiques on Jewish Street. The bungalows, centuries old, are a tribute to the rich culture of the area – a medley of Portuguese, Dutch, Keralite and even Chinese influences.Their foundations are redolent of ancient history. One such heritage home is Koder House. The mansion has been spruced up to offer the curious tourist a unique and his-torical experience. Situated just off the seashore, the imposing, russet-red three-storied mansion has been renovated as a bou-tique hotel. It is also called the Red House because of its dis-tinctive red façade. Before it was bought by Samuel Koder, the Koder House was an early 19th century Portuguese mansion. Samuel Koder belonged to the city’s most prominent merchant Jewish fami-lies. This section of the community used to be the uncrowned business czars of the city. The Koders were Sephardic Jews who, after fleeing from Spain to escape the Inquisition, were given refuge in the palace of the local king. They thrived here, generation after generation, till they left for Israel.

For decades, this prominent Cochin Jewish family ran a thriving business, Koder and Co. General Stores that stocked everything from molasses to pins. The house was a Cochin institution with a history of great entertaining. The Koders were known for the lavish parties they threw for important people in their lovely home. In fact, their Friday night ‘Open House’ parties were legendary. The house that has played host to presidents, prime ministers, ambassadors and celebrities, never fails to charm the visitor. The Dutch ambassadors came calling very often as Samuel Koder was the honorary consul to the Netherlands. Actor Frederick Marsh, with President Eisenhower’s daughter Countess Snowdon and her family are some of the celebrities who dined here. Sonia and Rajiv Gandhi visited the place when they came with Indira Gandhi in 1977-78. "We have not erased the original character of the bungalow. We have maintained the features of a heritage structure without disturbing the existing architecture. The only construction has been a pool in the rear of the building to enhance the hotel’s brand value. Furniture, lighting, and flooring are all in character with the period," says Vicky Raj, the present owner. In its new avatar as an exclusive boutique hotel, Koder House offers six super luxury suites, two on each floor. Each suite consists of a massiveed-room, one living room, a dressing area and bath-room with its own jacuzzi and personal valet. All the rooms have wooden-beamed ceilings, four-poster beds with footstools to climb on to them, rugs, ancient coat stands, Belgian glass items and odd pieces of gleaming old furniture. The feel is contemporary as well as classic, the atmosphere, relaxed. Menorah, the multi-cuisine restaurant overlooks a luxurious pool by the court-yard. One can linger over the scrumptious food, which pays tribute to the Jewish heritage of the mansion’s original owners. It is a fusion of Continental and Indian cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood – the beach, after all, is just a stone’s throw away. For starters, there is Marak (soup). "The Oak Marak, a chicken-based broth with vegetables and meatballs is worth a try," recommends chef Hari. We followed this with Koubba, an Indo-Jewish stuffed chicken cooked in Jewish gravy accompanied with ‘plave’, yellow rice made in coconut milk with turmeric, a very clear influence. Sit back replete after sampling the Jewish chocolate pudding, made of cocoa, coffee and chocolate. One can delight in this boutique hotel by taking a dip in the pool by the courtyard or be pampered at the Serena Spa which offers a fusion of Indian and Asian spa treatments adhering to ancient traditions. While all the modern amenities are available, it is the perceptible influence of the past that fascinates the most. The chessboard style tiles in the lobby, the imposing wooden staircase that leads to the hanging bridge, which once connected this structure to the opposite building, all remind one of the glorious era of the Kochi Koders.

Heritage bedroom at Koder House